Journal: Broad Peak - 2012

Broad Peak Expedition Journal


6 Jun, 12 - 11:06

Hi Everyone

Just a quick update, The last few days here in Kathmandu Nepal went pretty fast.

I spent some time at the local Monastery, lighting butter lamps for family members who are no longer with us and a Puja for my Mom.

Also the sorting out of gear and the final prep for the expedition.

In a couple of hours I will be on a flight to Pakistan towards the next leg of the journey .


From Nepal to Pakistan

June 13th/2012

Hi Everyone

From Kathmandu, Nepal, I would fly into Karachi Pakistan and after eight hours between flights, I found myself in the capital of Pakistan, Islamabad.

Within the next two days, team members would arrive one by one until all eight of us sat together over steaming cups of chai tea. In regards to experience, everyone is bringing something different to the table, that experience will make us a solid team.

On June 11th we packed all of our climbing gear on top of our bus and settled in for a 34 hour bus ride.

Over the next two days we traveled through dusty towns with names such as Abbott, Mansehra, Bisham, with a overnight stop in Chillas. With a couple hours of sleep we were on the road again. As the miles passed by we found ourselves passing by the junction point where three of the highest mountain ranges in the world meet together.

At around 4:30pm on June 12th we would arrive in Skardu, tired and dusty but smiles all around.

June 13th , 2012

For the next two days we will stay here in Skardu. The team and I will put up all the tents, check all our personal gear and recheck everything. Success can only come with proper planning from the beginning. So there has to be attention to every detail.

The hike to Broad Peak

June 16th, 2012

We left Skardu on the morning 15th for a 5 plus hour ride to Askole. I'm still not sure how we made it. Piled into a 4x4 we we flew down the road at nail biting speeds, at times we hugged the cliff's so tight I thought the paint was going to come off,then in a blink of the eye we were in a tight corner and I found myself looking out the window on my side of the vehicle into the abyss. We arrived at our destination bruised and battered and in time for supper.

June 16th, 2012

The sound of the alarm came way to early at 4:30am. I didn't get much sleep, My sore raw throat kept me awake all night. I slipped from my sleeping bag as if I were in an earlier boxing match. After a little breakfast the porters lined up out side, a total of 90 to carry all our gear. Everything we will need in the coming months. Each porter will carry 24 kilos, not to mention each climber will carry his own packsack. I am carrying too much electronics, my packsack is so heavy that at times I thought my poor knees would buckle. Its going to take us about six days to reach Broad Peak base camp. Today was a 6 and a half hour hike through some of the most hostile country ,the sun was so intense , I thought the Prime Creator was punishing me for past sins. Well that's one day in, five to go.


Because life is an adventure

June 17th, 2012

I awoke at 4:30 today and felt great, what a difference a day can make. As I unzipped my sleeping bag I was greeted with the coolness of the early morning air. With my head torch on I packed my sleeping bag and other belonging for today's hike.

In the mess tent, I put a spoon full of instant coffee in my cup and as the hot water hit the bottom, the aroma of coffee filled the air and tasted oh so good.

By 5:40 with backpacks shouldered we were on our way. I like hiking in the early morning and being part of the day when the sunrises, there is something magical about it. As the sun was coming up over the horizon I looked up and saw a huge bird floating on the thermal wind currents high above me. At that moment I was filled with gratitude.

Early in the afternoon after a five hour hike we set up our second camp at a place called Paiyu. We will take a rest day here June 18th and move forward on June 19th. I feel a little congested, like I have flu like symptoms so I have started a round of COLD-FX, it will help boost my immune system but other wise I am doing ok.

I have been trying over and over again to send out a photograph with the text but because we are deep in a valley and surround by mountains on every side, I keep loosing the satellite connection. So for now I will just be sending text until we gain more altitude .

The team members are working great together, everyone looks solid.


Moving up the Baltoro

June 19th, 2012

After a day that I thought would never end and going on antibiotics I fell fast asleep at our new location "Urdukas"

June 20th, 2012

I was up at 4 am and started to pack my personal belongings. I felt tired, weathered and beaten down but here in the mountains it's just another day. I will always say that he or she who is willing to bow down to the art of suffering the most has the best chance for success.

Todays hike would take us from Urdukas to Goro 11 and take approximately five hours. The antibiotics have started to work and I stop every hour to rehydrate and eat a little something. Slowly I can feel my strength returning. I will stay another day/night in isolation from the team.

June 21st, 2012

From Goro 11 we will hike to Concordia this will take about three and a half hours. It's a shorter day but we're gaining altitude and need to give our bodies a chance to adjust "acclimatization". I am feeling much better and now that the antibiotics are taking effect and that I am pass the point of infecting the other team members, I will be joining them for supper.

Arriving at Concordia the team members and I were treated to the most stunning views of Broad Peak and K2. How could one not be humbled

After something to eat, sleep would come fast, like Alice in wonder land I slipped down through the rabbit hole where I would dream for the next eight hours.

June 22nd, 2012

I was awake at four thirty, packed and sitting in the mess tent by five am having a cup of steaming coffee with all the other team members. The temperature dropped last night and we got a little dusted with the snow. The visibility is not the best this morning, either way we will have our back packs shouldered by 6 am and be on our way. Today's hike would continue to take us up even further into the Baltoro Glacier.

After thee and a half hours we located a spot for our Broad Peak base camp that will be our home in the coming months. It will take us hours to carve out tent platforms on the glacier which is covered in moraine rock.

My health has returned and I am feeling great. Everyone had a healthy appetite over supper last night and are in great spirits.


Team Work

June 23rd, 2012

During speaking engagements I often talk about two major factors that contribute to my success as a mountaineer and how instrumental they are for an organization to be successful. One being Team Work and the other being Safety. I believe that they have to be part of your everyday core values. I would like to share a story with you because as the story unravels you will see those core values and how important they are.

A team member was struggling with an upper respiratory infection and a gastro-intestinal infection for days.

Before going on antibiotics, it's wise to try and let the bug run through your system. It's not uncommon for team members to be hit with this. In the early morning hours on June 18th around two am, he awoke to the pressures in his stomach. As if the tent were on fire he bolted and dashed towards the latrine. Passing one team members tent, then other tents and then he stopped, dead in his tracks. The pressure was too great, he knew what he had to do. He backed up to the edge of the cliff, careful not to go for the big tumble in the dark. Franticly he started to drop his trousers but it was too late, he was covered in his own excrement. He stood there in shock, for a minute that seemed like hours. Slowly he took of one shoe and pulled the pants off and then the other until he stood there with both shoes on and naked from the waist down. As he tried his best to clean himself up all he could think about was what if another team member is going to the latrine at that same time and sees him in the dark naked from the waist down. What will they think?

The day of the 18th went ok for the team member and then on the 19th he was up at 4am and hiking by 5am. The hike would be a long day, about 10 hours. To get to the next camp site "Urdukas you have to travel up the Baltoro Glacier which is full of glacier moraine for miles. The first hour went uneventful he was smiling, having fun and then it started. He ran for a boulder and relieved himself, this would go on all day, boulder to boulder. When you have a GI bug, what's happing in a nut shell is that your internal organs are dehydrating and your getting weaker every time you have to go. I could be corrected on this but I think that for every liter of water lost through a GI bug you need to at least drink a minimum of two liters of water to rehydrate. He carried three liters of water more than he would need if things were going good. He stopped frequently and tried to rehydrate himself and ate as well. He was all to aware what was happening, with every rock stop he was getting weaker and weaker. He was not alone, two high altitude porters were with him. About an hour and a half from the next camp he found himself sitting on a rock resting when two team members came by. They took one look at him and sprung into action, they pinched his nails for color, he looked beat, he needed more fluids. They found a stream and treated the water and gave it to him, as fast as he drank it, it came back up again and then he ducked behind another boulder. Poor soul. As the team members hiked onwards taking care of their team mate, one of the high altitude porters went on ahead and then traveled back to meet them with hot tea and crackers for their stricken team mate.

Once we arrived at our camp site for the night the sick team mate was put into isolation to keep the infection from spreading to the rest of the team. As he lay in his tent, sick as a dog a hand would pass through the zipper opening and hand him a cup of soup, another would pass food and water. Others with words encouragement. For the next five days he will be on antibiotics.

It didn't take long before he was fast asleep and sleep he did. Like being hit by lightning he awoke at 4am and jumped up and started packing his personal belongings and sat outside on a rock, a porter would bring him a cup of coffee. Today's hike would be a few hours shorter than the previous day.

The team member felt much better and arrived in good spirits to our new location June 20th, he will stay in isolation for one more day, and be eating with the rest of the team tomorrow. The team mate that is sick, the one that I keep talking about is me. This is not just a story about Team Work and Safety, it's also about Team members using the buddy system. Team members taking care of each other.

I would like to introduce to you, my team members.

Arni Edvaldsson, Iceland
Hamta Tidoum, Algeria
Darren Robertson, Australia
Matthew Gardiner, Scotland
Ben Kane, Australia
Louis Olivie Petelle, Canada
Brad Jackson, Australia

The team members would like to send their love to family and friends

Base Camp, "Broad Peak"

June 23rd, 2012

I would like to take this opportunity to welcome my sponsors Finning (Canada), Remax of Fort McMurray, their employees, clients and each and everyone of you, to base camp of Broad Peak the twelfth highest mountain in the world. Where Team Work and Safety are our core values.

Getting to the summit is our goal and objective, getting everyone back down safely is our success.

We arrived here yesterday and established base camp. Today will be a rest day and tomorrow we as a team will go over our personal gear and group gear once again. We will work on rope management, gear placement and our accountability to ourselves and our team members. Our success depends on it.

My health is back, I am sleeping well and eating great. I am feeling like a cat on a hot tin roof.

Our hike here took us from an altitude in Islamabad 1,680ft to our bace camp here on the Baltoro Glacier which is 15,390 and the height of the mountain is 26,555ft.

I look forward to the coming weeks and the challenges that lay ahead.

All the best,


Camp One

June 26th, 2012

Yesterday I was awake at 3:30 am. In the darkness I fumbled for the zipper in my sleeping bag, I could hear the sound of zipper as it slid down the zipper tracks and then it caught on the fabric of my sleeping bag. In a frantic I tugged harder, it got tighter. I was in a panic "my pee bottle was full, I was on bust" I had to go!! Slowly the zipper freed itself and an early morning swim was averted.

After a quick breakfast the team and I shouldered our backpacks and headed down the moraine and into the ice pinnacles. For the next hour we would weave back and forth until we found ourselves at the base of the mountain. With crampons secured to our boots we descend into the vertical world. The air got thinner, the conditions were not the best" fingers got cold and upwards we climbed at times sinking up to our knees in soft snow. Fighting for every foot gained until we found a small ridge where we established camp one at an altitude of 18,000ft. Once tents were erected, everyone descend back to base camp, exhausted but happy Camp one is in place. Today being the 26th, we will take a rest day and tomorrow we will climb back up to camp one for the night and try and push and establish camp two.

The weather here is terrible, very unpredictable.

The team members are in good spirits and working hard together.


From a tiny tent on a big mountain

June 28th, 2012

We had hoped to move back up to camp one on the 27th but like any plan, when it comes to safety new decisions have to be made and corrections put into place based on new information. On the night of the 25th and during the day of the 26th we had gotten hit with fresh snow at base camp, which means fresh snow on the mountain as well. We new that with fresh snow on the mountain that the threat of avalanches was all too real and a threat to the team and life itself. Safety has to be at the forefront, so we decided to hang back and give the snow a chance to consolidate or even let the mountain shake it's shoulders in the form of avalanches.

This morning at 3:30, I was up and packing my backpack, by 4 am I was in the mess tent drinking coffee with Matt and Brad. The three of us and four high altitude porters would set out to climb to camp one today with the intent to push the root all the way to camp two early tomorrow morning.

There is not much room for too many tents on this tiny ridge we call camp one. In a nut shell the platform that's carved out for our tent is so small that one side is next to a void" quite exposed. Matt being a little heavier than me is hugging the mountain and my goal is not to roll too much in my sleep to the opposite side. Although that's the side of the tent that I am on.

The rest of the team will move up to camp one tomorrow for the night (weather permitting) and bring extra gear to establish camp two, as we push to camp two and install the fixed lines and hopefully carve out the tent platforms. Once that is done we will descend all the way back to base camp for some much needed rest.

Today's satellite dispatch to being brought to you from camp one from an altitude of 18,000ft. From a tiny tent on a big mountain.


Happy Canada Day Everyone

July 2nd, 2012

Sleep came easy on the night of the 28th and I slipped into dream land even faster. The last thing I remember was putting my nose to the fabric of my tent and thinking "wow on the side of this fabric is a void filled with stars and space " I sure hope that the tent does not decided to slide.

In the early morning darkness I reach for my head torch and with a flick of a button a beam of light came to life, striking a match brought our little stove to life and the process of melting snow for much needed water and to stay hydrated began.

After our gear was packed and back packs shouldered we set out to set the root to camp two. At times my fingers got so cold they felt like wooden claws, the tips of my gloves incased in ice. In certain sections as we gained height the snow was up to our knees and every foot gained was a huge achievement. Minutes moved into hours and the hours slipped by, as if time stood still. From time to time we would stop and drink some water, eat and apply more sun cream. With every step we would kick our boots hard into the snow / ice and our crampons would find their purchase and keep us one with the mountain.

With camp two set in place at an altitude of 20,336ft the long decent to base camp started in one long push. Although we did stop at camp one for a few minutes to talk to the other team members who had moved up to camp one and who would be carrying group gear to camp two. Everyone is working so hard together as a team.

Arriving back at base camp we were all so tired but happy with the results of the last couple of days. The rest of the team would join us at base camp the following day for much needed rest.

Happy Canada day everyone. I am so proud to be Canadian and represent each and everyone of you on the international stage. I take that responsibility very serious and will represent you and our country with integrity, goodwill and with a strong sense of responsibility.

We Three

July 3rd, 2012

I awoke at 2 am this morning and for the next hour I was lost in thought, the only sound I could hear were the Buddhist prayer flags as the early morning breeze brushed them gently against my tent.

I started packing my climbing gear into my back pack at around 3 am and at 4 am I was sitting in the mess tent with my team members eating boiled eggs and washing them down with strong coffee . It's time to start climbing the mountain again after a few days rest.

Today we climbed up to camp one and will spend the night here and early tomorrow morning we will climb up to camp two. I am sharing a tent with an high altitude porter, his name is Aziz from Pakistan. He has a ton of experience and most recently was a team member with the Russians for the 2011/2012 K2 winter expedition. Not only that but he is a great guy with a great sense of humor. The third member that is also sharing camp three with us is also a great person with stellar character and a very good climber, his name is Darren from Australia.

Today the sun is out and not a cloud in the sky, looking in every direction we are treated with the most magnificent views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.

The valleys below look like rivers of snow and ice. Standing tall and majestic is K2, it is the second highest mountain in the world and it dominants anything in the area.

Standing on this ridge one is treated to a painters dream come true. We three stand here with humility.

Staying Hydrated

July 4th, 2012

Last night on our little ridge we call camp one, sleep would not come easy for me. For supper I ate a freeze dried meal and my stomach did not agree. Soon after loud noises started to erupt and I looked as if I swallowed a basketball. This would go on all night long, so much so that both ends of the tent had to be opened up.

I looked at my watch it read 4 am, it was time to get packing. I felt exhausted but the way to the top is up. We need to sleep at camp two, let our bodies adjust to the new altitude but also to continue pushing the route upwards. This is a big job and it requires team work from everyone.

Feeling beat up I strapped on my crampons, kicked hard into the snow and upwards into the vertical world I went. My goal was to be at camp two before the sun got too hot. The tents were a welcoming site at camp two. Our goal was to spend two nights here but the weather forecast is looking bad with very high winds so we might descend back to base camp tomorrow morning (weather permitting).

I have just spent the last couple of hours melting snow, it takes an awful amount of melted snow to produce two liters of water and of course one must be drinking water all the time to stay hydrated.

I would like to say Hi to all my family, friends and also to my extended family at Finning (Canada) and Remax Fort McMurray.


Suffering becomes his soul mate

July 5th, 2012

The lines on his face tell his suffering, I watched him as the bitter cold lashed against his body, robbing his hands of any feeling off warmth as he struggled to strap on his crampons. He looked in my direction, no words needed to be spoken, he is one of Iceland's finest

" He is a man built of charter"

I said it time and time again, He or She who is willing to bow down to the art of suffering the most has the best chance for success.

Arni and other team members have spent two nights above 20,000ft. I watched as one by one they secured the rope to their rappel device and disappeared over the edge, for the long decent to base camp.

Aziz and myself will spend another night here. At this altitude we need to take not just care of ourselves but use the buddy system and take care of each other. I speak absolutely no Pakistani but Aziz speaks pretty good English, a lot of the time I will say something and his response would be "ok everything good" then I will nudge him in the side and he will start laughing, then I know everything is good. Once in a while I give him my satellite phone to call his family and I can hear the joy in his voice . It's remarkable that two people from difficult worlds and different cultures can get along so well in such a small tent" when one person turns, he says to the other person, ok' ready turn.

Today its cloudy, windy and cold but for a brief moment the sun popped out with intensity so I stuck my head out side of the tents vestibule, closed my eyes and snow droplets drifted down and one by one they brought back memories. I thought about my Mother and her fight with cancer, my heart cried out for my sister and her family for their recent loss. I though about my late brother and the ccm bike my father gave me for passing school when I was a little boy. I heard my mother's voice calling out to me and my siblings, we were young then and living on 11 Ocean Drive to come in of the street, there she lined all six of us up in a row in the kitchen and said open wide, one by one cod fish oil was spooned into our mouths. Cold brought me back from my past and fast forwarded me to the present.

The hissing sound of the stoves could be heard through out the day as snow was turned into much needed water to keep our bodies hydrated, the temperature here is dropping and more layers of clothing will be added for warmth before descending deep into our sleeping bags.

From camp two at an altitude of 20,362ft, from the little tent on a big mountain we say "Goodnight"

The shrinking man

July 9th, 2012

The night of the 5th at camp two, I awoke several times from the cold. I had tried to go deeper into my sleeping bag but jack frost was already there waiting for me. At 5 am after two nights above 20,000ft and letting our bodies adjust to that altitude "the art of acclimation" myself and Aziz decided not to light the small stove that we carried, but rather clip into the rope with our rappel device and zipper down the ropes checking each anchor as we descend lower. We made good time and arrived in time for breakfast but not with out incident.

In one incident, I clipped into the rope and went about 5ft when the rope broke in half and flipped me off my feet and backwards (I believe I aged 10 years). In another, when I was checking the anchors, the piton just pulled out of the rock. Both the piton and the section of the rope were replaced. The conditions here keep changing and we need to exercise vigilance at all times.

A couple of days rest were in order at base camp.

Today being July 9th, once again I find myself back on the mountain and at camp one for the night. The weather is all over the place, one minute it's not too bad with a little visibility the next minute it's as if someone with a bad sense of humor dropped the temperature and aimed a big blower in my direction. Oh well, another day in the office.


For quiet some time now the Big Pants Man has been coming to visit me, its on a regular basis. Always when I am asleep, he takes my pants and leaves a bigger pair. I am not sure how much weight I have lost so far on this expedition but my clothing sure looks big.

Cheers, from the shrinking man

The summit drums are beating

July 14th, 2012

I came down off the mountain on July 10th and have been resting and eating good. The team and I have been watching the weather everyday with great interest. Tomorrow morning I will be heading back up for what I hope will be my summit attempt. I will have better information as the day progress in regards to the weather but I am getting everything ready as if I am leaving tomorrow morning.

The team has been working hard together and everyone is looking strong. The summit drums are beating!

The summit push is on !!

July 16th, 2012

I was up and packing at 3:30 am, for today is our summit push. I popped my head out of my tent at 2 am and was greeted with fresh snow and lousy weather. Talk about the weather, we have people following the weather patterns and relaying that information to us but its so hard to nail it down "the weather is very unpredictable. This is our last chance to climb this mountain.

A strong French team tried several times and were forced back down the mountain, others tried and came back exhausted and with a little frost bite.

Hiking across the moraine this morning I could not even see the mountain. With crampons secured to my boots, I kicked in hard' snow swirled around me, cold snapped at me like a biting dog. Lower on the mountain it's changed so much, at times your only climbing rock for a hundred feet, as you try to find purchase your feet start to slip and sparks fly, you stay in control " no emotions, you look up and see a small crack in the rock and slip the tip of your ice axe in it and hold on, in the same fluid motion you look down and see a little ledge " just wide enough to place a front point, you shift your weight and up you go further into the vertical world. Finally off the rock and back onto the snow slope and up I go.

Darren, myself and two high altitude porters have climbed up to camp one. The team will be leaving base camp tomorrow morning, we will all meet at camp two.

Good night from the little tent on a big mountain.

The summit is but a token of success

July 17th, 2012

I didn't get much sleep last night at camp one, I was alone in the tent and sleeping on a 1/2 air mattress that kept loosing its air, so basically I was sleeping on the floor of the tent. By 4 am I had enough and lit my little stove and made myself a cup of coffee . Clipping into the rope I looked at my watch , the time was 5:38 am. My pack was lighter than the two high altitude porters so I went ahead to pull out the ropes that got buried the night before from the snow fall and to kick in new steps for the others to follow . I was about 20 or 30 minutes ahead of the others and enjoying the freedom of the mountains and being in the moment when I realized that I could not feel some of my fingers on my left hand. I kicked hard into the snow for greater purchase and secured myself to the side of mountain and took of my glove, some of the tips of my fingers looked waxy in appearance " my fingers were freezing. I unzipped my outer jacket and inner clothing and placed my hand under my arm pit for warmth, as the fingers started to move again I made a mental note to keep an eye on that hand and not to forget the pain. With the glove back on, I continued to climb to camp two.

Throughout the day team members arrived in different stages of exhaustion. Everyone happy to be here.

July 18th, 2012

The morning started of very cold and I was so happy to have my down suite that Mountain Hardware supplied. Although the weather was getting worse the team climbed on and arrived at camp three. Digging out a platform and putting up tents in a storm requires tremendous team work, no mistakes" none, not one.

Once everyone was inside of the tents and out of the storm the long process of melting snow began to stay hydrated. Life and its very survival depends on water" and the stove working

The storm would rage on all day and deep into the night, dumping snow all around us. From time to time the two high altitude porters and I would look at each other as if to say " ok who's turn is it to get dressed and go fill up the bag with fresh snow for melting. We would take turns, one minute you were in a cocoon in the warmth of your little tent , the next minute the zipper closed behind you and "bam" you were outside in a different world, snow swirling all around you, cold penetrating every pore of your skin as if a thousand needles were injecting you at one time. Three bodies wrapped in down features staying close to each other for warmth , surviving the night" one life depending on the other.

July 19th, 2012

The decision was made that if the storm died down, rather than move up and put in a camp four that we would try and make a final summit push from camp three" time was running out for us. The problem was that from here a summit push would take 20 plus hours. If the wind continued as it was , fingers or toes could be lost from cold/frost bite. We would wait with the hopes that the weather would subside and we could leave at midnight .

The storm ragged on and on , the tent shook as if next to a train track, guywires straining to the point of breaking , tent poles bending past what they were designed for. We are above 23,000ft the body can't recuperate at this altitude , we are getting weaker and weaker. Decisions have to be made, Safety has to be at our core.

Getting to the summit is our goal and objective , getting everyone back down of the mountain and home to their families is our success .

Decision time

July 20th, 2012

With the storm raging all around us we put on all our gear, harness, boots etc..on in the tent and like a animal crawled outside of our shelter . One person looking out for the other, the time was 5 am. With fingers turning to wood we took down our tents and turned our backs to the mountain and to any chance of a summit attempt . We choose to live, getting down would be an epic on its own.

Visibility was very limited" thank god we marked parts of the root with bamboo wands" The visibility was so bad that we would sit down on the broad slopes of the mountain and wait, eyes straining for a bamboo sighting, the fear was that we would walk of the side of the mountain or pop through a snow corneas , either way hells bells would be waiting for us.

From camp three we arrived at camp two and the visibility was better and then the rappelling started , anchors melting out or flexing" ready to pop. Each one had to be checked, keep your eye on the ball, no mistakes "Safety first" Our goal, one long day from above 23,000ft to the safety of base camp.

Rappelling on a section of rope from camp one I heard a sound, I froze . I bent over to make myself a smaller target, a rock had dislodged and was heading in my direction as it bounced it broke into smaller pieces, I could hear them whistle beside me as they screamed to the valley below. My heart pounding , my fingers working my figure eight "rappelling device " I continued down.

I arrived at the base of the mountain and worked my way through the ice pinnacles and to base camp. Other members would arrive through out the day, the last team member came through the ice pinnacles long after dark.

Everyone is safe, we may not have reached our objective but we have success.

In the end we worked great as a team together and kept safety as our core value. We had everything that we needed at camp three to make a successful summit attempt but in the end the weather was not on our side. That's one thing we can't control.

Charles S Houston once said "On great mountains, all purpose is concentrated on the single job at hand, yet the summit is but a token of success , and the attempt is worthy in itself".

Special thanks to my sponsors Finning ( Canada ) and Remax of Fort McMurray, their employees and client's. Thank you Mountain Hardware for supplying all my clothing and thank you Globalstar "Spot for global positioning.

Tomorrow I will be repacking my climbing gear and a group of porters will travel the short distance the following day with Matt and myself to K2 base camp where we will hook up with another team for the second leg of the expedition.


Forged by the experience

July 24th, 2012

I was up at 4 am this morning packing my duffel bags , at 5 am the team and I would have our last meal together.

They would be hiking in the opposite direction of Matt and myself, they are slowly heading home where as Matt and I are heading to K2 base camp for the next leg of our expedition.

It was hard to say goodbye , heartfelt hugs were shared, forged by the experience of climbing and cemented by mother natures wrath. Each one of us will take something different from this experience but in the end we are brother's and sisters of the rope. The lines on our face tell our story. The footprint of friendship has been shared.

This is the last dispatch from the Broad Peak expedition , thank you for following along and if you would like to follow the K2 expedition , it would be a pleasure to take you along.

Just tap the K2 expedition section.

Cheers, from the little tent.

© Al Hancock and Blue Horizon Adventures Ltd. All Rights Reserved  |  Site by Merge Creative